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Restaurant Review: How Waarsa Shines A Spotlight On The Lesser-Known Side Of Awadhi Cuisine

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Mumbai’s well-known National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA) has welcomed a brand new sort of inventive expression on its premises: a eating expertise that guarantees to seize the expansive essence of Awadhi delicacies. This new restaurant is called Waarsa, which means “inheritance”. Its menu is a passionate ode to Awadh’s lesser-known culinary heritage and celebrates flavours and methods which have been handed down via generations. Waarsa is helmed by Chef Rahul Akerkar and Chef Mukhtar Qureshi – a member of the famend Qureshi household. The duo is well-known for his or her earlier collaboration at Neel, a restaurant on the Mahalaxmi Racecourse.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

Waarsa is a enterprise by Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality (ABNAH) and Chef Akerkar serves as its Culinary Director. He highlights how this restaurant manages to problem sure preconceptions about Awadhi meals. “Awadhi delicacies is a lot greater than the wealthy, indulgent spreads of the nawabs. The different, often-overlooked aspect comes from the properties of Awadh – meals that is lighter, easier, and ready with recent, native components. Think of the meals the khansamas might need eaten in their very own properties after getting ready grand banquets. By spotlighting these on a regular basis preparations, Waarsa goals to showcase the depth and variety of Awadhi delicacies, ” he explains.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

Many of Chef Qureshi’s contributions are rooted within the private in addition to the historic. The menu displays his childhood reminiscences of home-cooked meals. For occasion, the Habibiya Champ is a recipe from his grandfather’s store, whereas the Lauki aur Channa Daal ki Shikampuri is impressed by his grandmother’s cooking. “I kept away from consuming greens as a baby. She used to make this dish for me; it made me love the meals and never notice that I used to be consuming bottle gourd,” he reminisces.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

Our meal started with Murgh Dhanewal Shorba, a light-weight rooster soup infused with the goodness of coriander. We relished each spoon regardless of the unseasonal warmth within the metropolis at the moment. The Nalli Shorba was equally comforting however boasted deeper flavours derived from the goat shanks. The small plates sections of the menu was daunting in a pleasurable approach. It was arduous to decide on what to order due to the pleasant novelty of choices. Yes, there have been some recognisable staples amongst the tikkas and kebabs. But there have been many different area of interest delicacies that tempted us. For instance, we preferred the char-grilled Tandoori Dasheri Aloo and the healthful Kamal-Jhad Shammi. While we’ve got tasted many veg shammi kebabs, this lotus stem model positively stood out to us. Even the selection of chutneys provides a way of novelty – every desk will get a serving of Dhaniya Lasson ki Chutney, Teekhi Tamatar ki Chutney and Imli aur Munaka ki Chutney.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

Paneer lovers, we extremely suggest the Awadhi Tawa Paneer Pasanda. Despite the a number of dishes that had been to observe, we could not assist ourselves from consuming extra of it! Chef Qureshi defined that it has a stuffing made with evaporated milk flavoured with fennel, which supplies it a creamy and fragrant twist. Among the non-vegetarian starters, do not miss the Rampuri Kacche Gosht Ki Tikki. To make it, the chef has chosen to make use of a really coarse mince and plenty of recent root herbs, which creates a daring, earthy flavour profile that displays its Rampuri origins. We additionally beloved the Murgh Gilafi Seekh Kebab, which had a novel texture because of the addition of pine nuts.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

The house-crafted cocktails at Waarsa mirror the fragile steadiness of flavour exhibited in its meals. “We choose spices and botanicals with care, selecting people who evoke a way of nostalgia whereas providing a recent twist for right now,” says Chef Rahul Akerkar. Some of the highlights embody The Emperor’s Rose (gin, rose & cider shrub, cucumber, splash of tonic), Cutting Old Fashioned (Bourbon, masala chai syrup, fragrant bitter, matri) and Summers in Agra (Mezcal, musk melon, mango pickle, coriander, lime). Also complementing the meals is Waarsa’s elegantly understated atmosphere and decor. Its considerate design is the work of famend restoration architect Abha Narain Lambah. Using Awadh’s architectural language, she has created an area that honours the previous and the current. The washed-out salmon partitions, intricate ceilings, and subtly ornate furnishings create a snug but inventive setting to your meal.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

In the primary course, we beloved the refined aromas of the Kashmiri Gucchi Nadir Yakhni, a yoghurt-based gravy with morels and lotus root. We paired it with the Khushka Bhagara Pulao, a healthful rice dish flavoured with dry fruits and nuts. For a (barely) spicier choice within the mains, we went with the Mutton Kheema Hara Pyaaz – a pleasant preparation of coarse mutton mince. We scooped it up with Bakhumaas, a kind of sourdough flatbread and considered one of Chef’s signatures. We additionally tasted the Ambada Daal Tadka, which ensured we remained impressed with the savouries proper until the tip. For dessert, we indulged in some yummy Angoori Rabdi and Parde Mein Shahi Khubani. The latter, which is a baked apricot halwa with out added sugar, is a must-try. It shocked us with its wealthy style with out the heaviness we affiliate with sure halwas.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

We completely loved how Waarsa managed to have fun the intricacies of Awadhi delicacies past the same old. After attempting so many dishes, we will attest that the Chefs have nailed the intrinsic steadiness of spice and fats. We left feeling full in one of the simplest ways and look ahead to returning quickly.

Address: Waarsa, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai.

Photo Credit: Waarsa

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